Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Observing Elections ...

I went into this process (as part of a larger team of neutral, international observers) slightly cynical and wanting the comp time it offered, more than the experience. After witnessing countless polling booths and hundreds of ordinary people patiently queuing up in the African sun, I came away a little chastised, a bit more educated about how & why democracy works, and quite fascinated by the whole process. 


I have lived (& was raised) in the world's largest democracy; and I now call home, the world's oldest (modern) democracy. Having participated in many prior elections and having watched with disdain the politicking and the shenanigans (in India and Illinois), I did not expect much this time around ... in Nigeria.


I was pleasantly surprised ... by what I observed, but, also by what I learned.


Below are some (sanitized) snippets of my observations of the elections over the last few weekends:
  • From a couple of weeks ago: "Youth corps staff seemed quite dedicated and focused; crowds seemed cheerful; some arguments heard, mainly due to people cutting in line and/or the heat. ... At one booth, I asked 3 of the nysc women whether they had voted. They smiled and said no. One of them stated that she wasn't registered here. Similar stories at other booths. Strange that many nysc staff slog away at the polling booths over multiple weekends diligently allowing hundreds of thousands of nigerians to exercise their democratic right, but can't or don't vote themselves. Poetic injustice? A statement we overheard seems to neatly capture the essence of what we observed today: "not perfect, but good enough."
  • From a week ago: "The entire crowd of about 40, mainly males, were slowly, rhythmically counting off the votes as we walked in. Surreal, like a bunch of school kids learning math in a classroom ... Seems like the party is beginning early tonight."
  • From today: " ... am standing next to a group of about 25 moms (with their babes strapped to their backs) and they are getting impatient. Volunteers are now explaining the ballot paper to the queued voters. A young volunteer curtsied to an older woman sitting down in the booth and patiently explained the process to her. Things are quiet-ing down ... I am amazed at the single-minded determination of this (and other crowds) - waiting, waiting patiently to have their votes count and their voices heard. Thus, democracy spreads - in fits and starts  - with some jostling, lots of arguing, and heavy doses of patience. Beautiful!"

Finally, throughout this process I was quite fascinated to observe the women - mothers, wives, sisters - who participated in this historic election quietly bearing the heat, the dust, the chaos, to have their voices heard.


And, I am in awe of the African Woman - she who walks many kilometers in the summer heat to be in line and on time to cast her vote; she who patiently waits countless hours, usually with her baby tied in a small bundle behind her back, to cast her vote; she who puts up with rude men cutting in front of her, but can hold her own place in line; she who is quite verbose when it comes to making her opinion count and voice heard; she who waits a whole day in line and yet has to be home in time to get dinner ready for the family; and, finally, she who, more than anyone else, has everything to gain from credible elections that may turn this country around and finally give her the peace, justice, and prosperity that have long been denied her.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

The U.S. Navy Is In Town

One of the Navy's Guided Missile Frigates docked here last night and US Navy personnel, in their usual understated style, began working on a number of community projects in/around town. 
I accompanied the USN team today as they started a project at Tomaro Island. I worked along side a team of Seabees constructing desks & shelves at the island's community school. It was great to be out in the warm African sun working with the Navy's finest ...

... a nice, albeit hardworking, break from consular work!
:)